There are two video series, "Dress Sewing with Pleated Skirt, Spaghetti Straps, Piping and Invisible Zipper" and "Panel Dress Sewing with Princess Seams, Flared Skirt, Facing, Lining and Invisible Zipper". The second one shows how to change to a princess seamed bodice. Both demonstrate different skirt styles from the basic "Skirt Block Straight & Tapered".
Another adaptation of a skirt style is in "A-Line Skirt Pattern Making".
In chapter 19, where we show how to center the shoulder slopes and align the armholes, we do need to make an adjustment. However depending on the body shape and measurements, it is possible for the red shoulder line that we draw, to fall on the back or the front pattern, or right on the existing shoulder line.
For the dress form that we used in this lesson, the new shoulder line fell on the back bodice pattern, because of the body shape and measurements.
Even if your new shoulder line falls on the existing ones, you will still need to adjust the length of the front shoulder line based on the length of the back shoulder line.
Rarely this type of situations come up, it is a good idea to check the body measurements again and see if they have been used on the pattern accurately.
This picture shows a V neck top, with a notch collar, that has a very narrow shoulder seam. However after wearing the top the shoulders have been pulled down. This way it looks like an off shoulder top. You can tell this by how the left sleeve is bunching up around the cap of the sleeve.
When a garment has a shoulder seam, even just a short one, the garment can hold its shape better on the body.
If you want the top to be truly off shoulder, then you need to remove some material at the top of the sleeve cap.
The neckline needs to start from the point that the sleeve is joined to the armhole.
It is better that the back neckline be higher than the front of the neckline. This way the top will hold itself better on the body.
Since we want the back of the neckline to be higher than the front, we need to remove the top of the sleeve cap diagonally, with the back of the sleeve at a higher angle than the front of the sleeve.
The length of the collar will need to cover the top circumference of the opening.
To help the top stay in place on a truly off the shoulder garment, we need to incorporate an elastic band at the top of the sleeves.
When a blouse has no stretch in the material and no opening on the front, the side seam or center back, we can not make it too fitted. Doing this will make it difficult to wear.
If your blouse does not have any opening, you may apply a zipper to the left side seam. The bottom zipper stop should be at the top of the opening. This way you can wear the blouse easily.
Thanks for the question. We have a dress making video lesson that is styled with princess seams. You can watch this lesson to see how we style a bodice block pattern we drafted according to the bodice block pattern making lesson, to include princess seams.
In the Panel Dress Sewing Video Lesson with Princess Seams, Part A you will learn how to alter the bodice and skirt block patterns. Then in the following parts, you will learn how to cut, baste and sew perfect princess seams.
The best thing to do here is to draw the curves free hand. However if they don't come out the way you like, you can erase the sections that don't look good and draw the lines again.
Repeat until you achieve the right shape. With experience you will become better and better.
Thanks for your question. I suggest you whatch the metric vs imperial measuring system video lesson.
The outcome will be the same either way you measure. However all calculators are in the metric system so it is easier to add, subtract, multiply and divide numbers. That's why it is easier to work with the metric system. Try using measuring tools (ruler, measuring tape) that have both metric and imperial to make it easier to convert the measurements into metric while you are measuring.
When you are drafting the front and back patterns, I suggest that your draft the back pattern separately from the front pattern. This way you don't need to worry about the horizontal lines not being level, since we are drafting the pattern according to the body measurements we have taken.
Because the front and back lengths are different for most people, this is why we measure the front bodice length and the back bodice length separately. Usually the front bodice length is longer than the back bodice length, since when we measure, we have to pass the measuring tape from the shoulder close to the neck, going down, passing the bust point and then to the bottom of the ribbon we have tied around the waistline.
Since we need to pass the measuring tape from the bust point which protrudes from the body, this usually makes that the front bodice length longer than the back. If we don't do this, it means we are ignoring the bust protrusion, which will cause the garment to be short on the front.
On the back we don't have the bust protrusion, that is why the back bodice length is usually shorter than the front bodice length. Unless the person has a hunched back, or excessive protrusion of the shoulder blades or has a flatter chest.
The side bust dart intake absorbs some of the excess length from the front bodice length on the side seam. When we are marking the side bodice length on the front patterns, the side bust dart should be closed. On the front pattern we measure up from Q along the side seam and mark for the armhole.
On the back bodice pattern, we measure up from S along the side seam and mark the armhole as well. This is why the length of the side seams of the front and back bodice patterns will be the same.
Sorry but I’m still having problems with sway back on my muslin. I drew my front and back on same paper since some of the horizontal levels on both are on same level. However as my waist level at the front is lower than my waist level at the back, my armhole to waist on F&B are not matching . Therefore my side seam does not meet.
Please I would be very grateful for a prompt response and any advice to eliminate this issue.
I also believe that having high hips is contributing to my sway back issues. A friend mentioned that accurate dart distribution should resolve it , but I’m not sure.
Many thanks in advance.
Thanks for the compliments. First you need to add seam allowances all around your front and back bodice block patterns. Do the same for the center front of the bodice block pattern as well.
Place the patterns on folded fabric and cut. Mark the center front seam line on both sides of the muslin pieces.
Sew the center back seam, all the darts, side seams, shoulder seams but not the center front seam. This way you will be able to wear the muslin and over lap the front opening, while matching the center front seam lines yourself. Later you can style your pattern according to your preference.
Since you need to shorten the side bust darts and waist darts ending at the bust points, you need to watch Chapter 20 of the bodice block pattern making video lesson. Make sure to do this step before cutting the muslin.
For your second question. The front bodice length is longer for most women. However those with smaller busts, hunched backs or protruding shoulder blades will have a longer back bodice length compared to the front bodice length. Some people's front and back bodice length could be the same.
Since you are drafting your pattern according to your own measurements, at the end the side seams of the front and back bodice pieces will match.
When we want to sew a garment with waist and side bust darts style. We dont want these two darts to end at the bust point. That is why to get a smooth surface on the bust points of the garmnet, we shorten these darts.
However if our garment has a style where we have seam lines, such as a seam line stating from the shoulder passing through the bust point and ending at the waistline or continuing down. Or a seam line starting from one armhole curving down passing through the bust point. Or a horizontal seam line passing from one side seam to the other going through the bust points. Or having some gathering or pleats around the neckline. In all these cases and many others, we need to have the exact location where the waist and side bust darts reach the bust point.
That is why when we draft our bodice block pattern, we need these darts to end at the bust point. Later we alter them as needed. Depending on the style of the garmeny we intend to sew.
Ok thanks. Also, in the basic bodice video at the end it says to alter darts for the garment. You lower the waist dart 2.5 cm. Then again in the adding ease video you say to lower dart 2.5cm? You do this 2x? Or adding ease video is the only one I need to do? Its a little confusing to see the altering dart video. Still not sure the purpose of the video.
What example is there when we dont alter the darts at all?
I suggest that you draft another pattern. Measure your body again making sure to follow the video lesson step by step.
When drafting the pattern double check your calculations as well. The side peace should not become longer. When sewing the princess seam, make sure that the tailor tacks and notches are matching. Watch the chapter where I show how to sew the princess seam. Go over the lesson without skipping any chapters to get a good idea of how to do the seams, without any issues.
The best thing to do, would be to sew a garment out of muslin and check the fitting before you cut your main fabric. This will let you know how the garment will fit. You don't need to compare it to other garments as each will have its own style which effects it's measurements.
Thanks for your kind words. I suggest that you double check your measurements and calculations again. This will help you find where the error occurred.
I am drafting a bodice for a young girl with no bust. When drafting, can I just not draw the bust dart and just draw side seam length? I dont know if there is a reason to transfer dart anywhere if she has no cup size. Also I tried to make the side dart small, but then the armhole length was very very small so I thought better without side dart at all.
Are there children patterns for bodice on this website? I didnt see in the discussion forum.
When sewing the princess seams together the smaller piece was too long and going way beyond. I had to cut it to match. Dont know why it ended up like that. Anyway it seems to be okay that I cut it.
The armholes from all the videos I watched in the past from other people they say back needs to be bigger, and usually the armhole syche is a lot more than mine. Mine is 34cm total. It seems okay, I didnt try it on yet since its not finished. But if you say this is normal than okay. Just want to make sure I followed the video correctly.
Also I meausred a dress that fits me perfectly. The side seam is the same as my pattern, the front armpit distance, bodice length, etc... Everything seems to be exact same measurment, but somehow the armhole is longer. Its 22cm each side. And its not far in or overly curved. How can this be?? I thought the only way was is to shorten side seam or armpit distance, but I checked a few garments and the side seam is the same as mine or longer and the armholes on all my garments are longer. I dont understand.
If the overlapping side of your placket is not a separate piece from your garment material, you can cut a one piece interfacing for the placket and neckline. But the underlapping side needs to have a separate piece of garment material and also separate interfacing from the rest of the neckline.
If the overlap side and the underlap side are separate pieces from the garment material, you obviously need to have seperate pieces of interfacing for the overlap side and underlap side of the placket from the neckline interfacing pieces.
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Another adaptation of a skirt style is in "A-Line Skirt Pattern Making".
Love,
nehzat_fan
Dear Missrefano,
Great idea - a side zipper would allow me to taper the blouse, perhaps insert darts. Thanks
Dear missrefano,
Dear Missrefano,
Dear missrefano,
Dear missrefano,
Dear missrefano,
Dear missrefano,
Nehzat
Dear Nehzat,
Dear hope123,
Dear Nehzat,
Please I would be very grateful for a prompt response and any advice to eliminate this issue.
I also believe that having high hips is contributing to my sway back issues. A friend mentioned that accurate dart distribution should resolve it , but I’m not sure.
Many thanks in advance.
Dear Surabeily,
When we want to sew a garment with waist and side bust darts style. We dont want these two darts to end at the bust point. That is why to get a smooth surface on the bust points of the garmnet, we shorten these darts.
However if our garment has a style where we have seam lines, such as a seam line stating from the shoulder passing through the bust point and ending at the waistline or continuing down. Or a seam line starting from one armhole curving down passing through the bust point. Or a horizontal seam line passing from one side seam to the other going through the bust points. Or having some gathering or pleats around the neckline. In all these cases and many others, we need to have the exact location where the waist and side bust darts reach the bust point.
That is why when we draft our bodice block pattern, we need these darts to end at the bust point. Later we alter them as needed. Depending on the style of the garmeny we intend to sew.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Ok thanks. Also, in the basic bodice video at the end it says to alter darts for the garment. You lower the waist dart 2.5 cm. Then again in the adding ease video you say to lower dart 2.5cm? You do this 2x? Or adding ease video is the only one I need to do? Its a little confusing to see the altering dart video. Still not sure the purpose of the video.
What example is there when we dont alter the darts at all?
Dear Surabeily,
Yes, you can just skip the bust darts for kids.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Surabeily,
I suggest that you draft another pattern. Measure your body again making sure to follow the video lesson step by step.
When drafting the pattern double check your calculations as well. The side peace should not become longer. When sewing the princess seam, make sure that the tailor tacks and notches are matching. Watch the chapter where I show how to sew the princess seam. Go over the lesson without skipping any chapters to get a good idea of how to do the seams, without any issues.
The best thing to do, would be to sew a garment out of muslin and check the fitting before you cut your main fabric. This will let you know how the garment will fit. You don't need to compare it to other garments as each will have its own style which effects it's measurements.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Telegant,
Thanks for your kind words. I suggest that you double check your measurements and calculations again. This will help you find where the error occurred.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
I am drafting a bodice for a young girl with no bust. When drafting, can I just not draw the bust dart and just draw side seam length? I dont know if there is a reason to transfer dart anywhere if she has no cup size. Also I tried to make the side dart small, but then the armhole length was very very small so I thought better without side dart at all.
Are there children patterns for bodice on this website? I didnt see in the discussion forum.
When sewing the princess seams together the smaller piece was too long and going way beyond. I had to cut it to match. Dont know why it ended up like that. Anyway it seems to be okay that I cut it.
The armholes from all the videos I watched in the past from other people they say back needs to be bigger, and usually the armhole syche is a lot more than mine. Mine is 34cm total. It seems okay, I didnt try it on yet since its not finished. But if you say this is normal than okay. Just want to make sure I followed the video correctly.
Dear Surabeily,