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For another example on how to transfer the back shoulder darts, you can watch chapter 7, from the Panel Dress Sewing Video lesson. There, I show how to transfer the back shoulder darts into princess seams, that start from the armholes and connect to the back waist darts.
You can also connect the back shoulder darts directly to the back waist darts. Then create a cut line and add seam allowances to either side.
That makes sense. I use shoulder pads since I have narrow shoulders and it evens out my shoulder to hipline look.
But the question then is how can you transfer it out so that its unseen besides making a yoke? I saw how you did that in the blouse sewing segment.
The reason we draft a pattern with a back shoulder dart, is to be able to follow the contour of the body better around the shoulder and shoulder blade. This creates room for the shoulder blade, just like the side bust dart makes room for the chest on the front pattern.
Usually garments that are more tailored have these darts. However the intakes of these darts can be transferred to different cut lines so that the darts are not visible.
In the past if there was no cut line to transfer the shoulder dart into, they just sewed the dart. But more recently, since most people don't like the look of this type of dart, it is omitted from ready made patterns.
The reason I tech both ways, is for you to have the option of sewing it, transfer it to a cut-line, or not have it at all.
By not drawing the back shoulder dart in the pattern, the finished garment will be gaping below the shoulder line along the back armholes. Unless shoulder pads are used.
First close the side bust dart and tape it down. Then using a different colored pencil draw the new bodice side seam line as you wish, for the ease. Remove the tape to open the side bust dart.
At the top continue the armhole straight to the new side seam. Then you can extend the upper leg of the side bust dart and cross the new side seam as well. Continue the line for the seam allowance.
For the lower leg of the side bust dart, draw a line parallel to the bust line, from where the lower leg meets the old side seam to the new side seam. Then draw a line from where this line crosses the new side seam to the dart point and extend it for the seam allowance as well.
To sew your pull on pants without a zipper. After drafting the pants block pattern as indicated in the lesson, you can use the straight lines from G to A, on both the front and back patterns. When sewing the pants you also dont sew the darts. This way when wearing the pants you will be able to pull them up to your waist. You can also sew a mock fly zipper if you want or have a plain seam at the center front.
I appreciate this reply a lot. I have one added question on the subject of pull on pants. If the goal is just to use elastic at the waist and not have a zipper, how would you atler it? I would like to make pants for work. I currently wear pants that have a mock fly with pockets and an elastic waist. They are wearing out and Mervyn's no longer exists. They weren't the perfect fit anyway, but I need my pants to be a little less fitted from the hip up since I am on my feet and moving and bending all day.
Would that also apply to pants. I have a tummy and thick thighs but not a protruding buttocks. My back is a bit flatter than average, but not totally flat. I usually have a little extra fabric under my rear when I buy pants and I think it's because of that.
Khoda hafiz.
Cheryl
When calculating for the bust line of the back bodice pattern, you can divide the bust circumference by 4. Then deduct up to 2 cm from it and mark on the bust line. When drawing the front bodice block pattern, you divide the bust circumference by 4 and add this amount to it.
This way the side seam on the bodice will not be placed too much towards the front.
The same thing can be done for the waistline and lower hip-line, if the front of the body is fuller than the back,
I wish you a very happy and peacful Eid. May Allah accept our good deeds,
forgive our transgressions and let's not forget the suffering of all the people around the globe and help even with a dua and a penny
Thank you Nehzat, I actually was here at midnight but somehow didn't see the last part...I was exhausted and just wasn't focusing. Really appreciate these tutorials. They open my eyes! :)
You can see how to sew the front and back bodice together by watching the Shirt Sewing Video Lesson. In this lesson I show how to style and add ease to the bodice block patterns, then cut the shirt pieces from muslin and sew a shirt. Then do a fitting and then cut and sew the shirt using the main fabric.
You can divide the bodice waist darts the same way as the skirt to make sure they are the same and that the darts line up when you join the patterns together.
If you want the dress to be fitted you can sew both darts on either side.
A second option is to sew both darts on either side, but reduce their intake.
A third option is to not sew the smaller darts, this will add some ease to your garment in the waist area. This works especially well for full figures.
I recommend checking on muslin so you can decide which way you prefer most depending on your body shape. Check the fit in the mirror from different angles to help you decide.
Thanks for the kind words. I am happy to see that you like the video lessons. Right now all of the pattern making video lessons have an image you can click on with the pattern on it. There is also a list of measurements on the side that you will need to take. You can print this sheet and keep it as a reference and note down your measurements as you go along.
There should be no problem with lowering the side seam until the bodice fits you. If you do a test fitting on muslin, you can always estimate how much you need to lower the side seam length by. The same goes for the armpit area. Then make the same adjustments to your pattern. This way, when you cut and sew your main fabric, there won't be any problems.
I drafted a new bodice block and decreased the back armpit, front armpit and side seam length. I still have too much fabrick near the bottom of armhole on back and creases when I move my arm. So I guess the area is bustline at W and just about a cm above that then down to the seam under the arm at X. Will lowering the sideseam length even more create problems elsewhere. Does 14cm sound like it would work. I am short between the underarm and waist and could try this. It is hard to measure myself and get an accurate measurement. Thank you for your help. Pat
Thanks for your question, below is a link to an answer I gave about this topic to another member. Please click to read the answer. If you have any questions please let me know.
Dear jordans,
For Sewing the buttons you can watch the Button Sewing Essentials Video Lesson.
Below you can watch a YouTube video that will show you how to place these types of buttons.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Cheryl,
For another example on how to transfer the back shoulder darts, you can watch chapter 7, from the Panel Dress Sewing Video lesson. There, I show how to transfer the back shoulder darts into princess seams, that start from the armholes and connect to the back waist darts.
You can also connect the back shoulder darts directly to the back waist darts. Then create a cut line and add seam allowances to either side.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Thanks Nehzat:
That makes sense. I use shoulder pads since I have narrow shoulders and it evens out my shoulder to hipline look.
But the question then is how can you transfer it out so that its unseen besides making a yoke? I saw how you did that in the blouse sewing segment.
Cheryl
Dear Cheryl,
The reason we draft a pattern with a back shoulder dart, is to be able to follow the contour of the body better around the shoulder and shoulder blade. This creates room for the shoulder blade, just like the side bust dart makes room for the chest on the front pattern.
Usually garments that are more tailored have these darts. However the intakes of these darts can be transferred to different cut lines so that the darts are not visible.
In the past if there was no cut line to transfer the shoulder dart into, they just sewed the dart. But more recently, since most people don't like the look of this type of dart, it is omitted from ready made patterns.
The reason I tech both ways, is for you to have the option of sewing it, transfer it to a cut-line, or not have it at all.
By not drawing the back shoulder dart in the pattern, the finished garment will be gaping below the shoulder line along the back armholes. Unless shoulder pads are used.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Cheryl,
First close the side bust dart and tape it down. Then using a different colored pencil draw the new bodice side seam line as you wish, for the ease. Remove the tape to open the side bust dart.
At the top continue the armhole straight to the new side seam. Then you can extend the upper leg of the side bust dart and cross the new side seam as well. Continue the line for the seam allowance.
For the lower leg of the side bust dart, draw a line parallel to the bust line, from where the lower leg meets the old side seam to the new side seam. Then draw a line from where this line crosses the new side seam to the dart point and extend it for the seam allowance as well.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Cheryl,
To sew your pull on pants without a zipper. After drafting the pants block pattern as indicated in the lesson, you can use the straight lines from G to A, on both the front and back patterns. When sewing the pants you also dont sew the darts. This way when wearing the pants you will be able to pull them up to your waist. You can also sew a mock fly zipper if you want or have a plain seam at the center front.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi Nehzt:
I appreciate this reply a lot. I have one added question on the subject of pull on pants. If the goal is just to use elastic at the waist and not have a zipper, how would you atler it? I would like to make pants for work. I currently wear pants that have a mock fly with pockets and an elastic waist. They are wearing out and Mervyn's no longer exists. They weren't the perfect fit anyway, but I need my pants to be a little less fitted from the hip up since I am on my feet and moving and bending all day.
Thanks
Dear Cheryl,
Yes you can apply the same to pants.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi Nehzat:
Would that also apply to pants. I have a tummy and thick thighs but not a protruding buttocks. My back is a bit flatter than average, but not totally flat. I usually have a little extra fabric under my rear when I buy pants and I think it's because of that.
Khoda hafiz.
Cheryl
Thank you Nehzat. That is what I will do.
Dear Cheryl,
When calculating for the bust line of the back bodice pattern, you can divide the bust circumference by 4. Then deduct up to 2 cm from it and mark on the bust line. When drawing the front bodice block pattern, you divide the bust circumference by 4 and add this amount to it.
This way the side seam on the bodice will not be placed too much towards the front.
The same thing can be done for the waistline and lower hip-line, if the front of the body is fuller than the back,
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
I wish you a very happy and peacful Eid. May Allah accept our good deeds,
forgive our transgressions and let's not forget the suffering of all the people around the globe and help even with a dua and a penny
EID MUBARAK
Dear Cheryl,
I will be making a lesson on drafting an A-line skirt pattern for the next lesson. Then go on to sew an A-line skirt using that pattern.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Thank you Nehzat, I actually was here at midnight but somehow didn't see the last part...I was exhausted and just wasn't focusing. Really appreciate these tutorials. They open my eyes! :)
Dear curtish,
You can see how to sew the front and back bodice together by watching the Shirt Sewing Video Lesson. In this lesson I show how to style and add ease to the bodice block patterns, then cut the shirt pieces from muslin and sew a shirt. Then do a fitting and then cut and sew the shirt using the main fabric.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear cherberr,
You can divide the bodice waist darts the same way as the skirt to make sure they are the same and that the darts line up when you join the patterns together.
If you want the dress to be fitted you can sew both darts on either side.
A second option is to sew both darts on either side, but reduce their intake.
A third option is to not sew the smaller darts, this will add some ease to your garment in the waist area. This works especially well for full figures.
I recommend checking on muslin so you can decide which way you prefer most depending on your body shape. Check the fit in the mirror from different angles to help you decide.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
I would love that too. Could we also have an unlined version?
Dear Pat,
There are different weights for satin. If your satin is heavy you need to use a heavy fabric for the skirt.
I suggest you do a test fitting using muslin. You may like the way it fits, otherwise you can add some ease to your pattern.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Pat,
That is a great idea. I will add your suggestion to my list for the upcoming video lessons.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Cheryl,
Thanks for the kind words. I am happy to see that you like the video lessons. Right now all of the pattern making video lessons have an image you can click on with the pattern on it. There is also a list of measurements on the side that you will need to take. You can print this sheet and keep it as a reference and note down your measurements as you go along.
Please let me know if this is what you needed.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Pat,
Thank you so much. The fabric was Giorgio Armani, a blend of wool and silk.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Pat,
There should be no problem with lowering the side seam until the bodice fits you. If you do a test fitting on muslin, you can always estimate how much you need to lower the side seam length by. The same goes for the armpit area. Then make the same adjustments to your pattern. This way, when you cut and sew your main fabric, there won't be any problems.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi Nehzat,
I drafted a new bodice block and decreased the back armpit, front armpit and side seam length. I still have too much fabrick near the bottom of armhole on back and creases when I move my arm. So I guess the area is bustline at W and just about a cm above that then down to the seam under the arm at X. Will lowering the sideseam length even more create problems elsewhere. Does 14cm sound like it would work. I am short between the underarm and waist and could try this. It is hard to measure myself and get an accurate measurement. Thank you for your help. Pat
Dear Barb36,
Thanks for your question, below is a link to an answer I gave about this topic to another member. Please click to read the answer. If you have any questions please let me know.
http://esewingworkshop.com/forum/checking-upper-hip-measurement-pattern#...
Hope this helps,
Nehzat